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Whenever curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. But, situated high among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.